Friday, 28 February 2014

Costume Design: Hitchcock (2012)

In my first steps of researching historical accuracy and authenticity in film and television, I will be looking at the costume designs of one film and two television shows to see how costumes designers went about trying to make the time period authentic by costumes.

Hitchcock (2012)



I looked at the online Grazia Daily interview with costume designer Julia Weiss, who was talking about dressing the actresses on the Hitchcock biopic (Scarlett Johannson, Helen Mirren, Jessica Biel, etc.), and also her interview with The Wall Street Journal, and in her interviews she talked about how she created the costumes for the cast of Hitchcock and her inspirations behind the designs.

When asked about how she conducted her research for the costumes she said that the research came from everywhere (books, archives, photos), but she also points out 'We must remember this is a black and white movie, and our memories are in black and white and somehow we colour correct our own memories'. This shows that even though some of the colouring may not be authentic, she has tried to keep it as authentic as possible with how people think they remember the colouring to be based on the shades of grey. She also talks about how she was able to see the original dress Janet Leigh wore in Psycho (1960) and that she knew it was blue from Janet's book, but in Hitchcock the dress which she wears is in fact white so it shows the lack of authenticity but is able to be overlooked as the original Psycho was in black and white.

Even though she did lack in some accuracy, it is explained in WSJ's interview with the costume designer that she had to alter certain truths in favour of the overall effect of the film. They explain that, 'Ms. Leigh was said to have worn a blue dress in the film, but the costume designer says she didn't replicate the costumes that closely. She dressed Mr. Hitchcock in his roomy black suits in each scene because that is the way he is remembered—though the director probably wore other clothes at home.'

She also talks about sourcing the costumes and creating each person's look and she said that she did not use anything from the original Psycho, as 'you are dealing with a memory and that was quite a few years ago'. This shows that it doesn't really show a great deal of authenticity as she is regarding it as a memory but tried to go for as much accuracy as possible as Julia Weiss 'studied the film as well as the lives of the characters, digging through news archives and even interviewing people who knew them', and went shopping at vintage stores and archives such as Western Costume Co., Palace Costume and Prop Co. and other places.

When talking about the looks she states, 'As a costume designer, I have no desire to work alone. I want to be part of something so in order for those costumes to work they have to belong to the actor and the character.'. This helps to give the authentic feel to the costumes as it makes the characters look as though they are wearing a piece of clothing they would normally wear as oppose to a costume.

In terms of colour, Weiss doesn't use accuracy but more how it would portray on screen, in terms that hot colours can 'connote control' and softer colours 'less likely to overwhelm a scene in which an actor needs to emote subtly'. This is shown in Hitchcock with Alma Reville (Helen Mirren) wearing red on the day she goes to the set and takes charge, and also the red swimming suit which also emotes control and freedom. 

These are some photos to show how accurate and authentic the costume design was in Hitchcock:

         


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